Today I decided to do something I haven't done in a while, go for a bike ride!!!
I had planned to go to see Aswan Dam, it was only about 12 miles from my hotel. I stripped Nigel naked and in doing so I noticed that my rear rack had broken yet again!!! This one had only lasted Egypt!! It's broken at the same place on both sides. It's not major, but still annoying, At least I had a while in Aswan to have a look in their bike shops or just fix it myself. I knew it couldn't be welded but I've got a fair few attachments that can be used to ensure the break doesn't escalate to other breaks.
I cast the rack out of mind for a bit and set off for the Dam. It felt so easy riding without all the baggage and it was also good to have a reccy to see if there were possible camping areas nearer to the docks (there weren't really). It didn't take long to reach low dam. There are two dams that work together to produce a huge amount of hydroelectricity. I don't know the ins and outs I just wanted a fancy picture. The Army were heavily controlling all the roads around both dams and I wasn't allowed to take pictures, they probably thought I was on an extremely low key scouting mission! I had a nice smile and a wave though as I crossed the low dam for the first time from the Army, which is normally the case.
I got to high dam and I have to say it was an absolutely massive anti climax. I was expecting a big dam like the one James Bond threw himself off so I could take an amazing picture of the surrounding landscape. Instead I got a big security fence and a tiny glimpse of a tiny dam. I went for a nosey around just because I like exploring. I had to cut that short because its a fact that you can't just go for a bike ride without the locals asking you where you're going. Today it happened to me three times and its happened many times before. These areas were not even army protected or restricted areas they were just roads but everybody I passed tried to tell me where to go!
I think there's some conspiracy. The Egyptians have found tons more gold and treasures from the past and they're using this down period in tourism to share it out with locals but all of a sudden some crazy lone white guy has rocked up to spoil the party! I cannot go anywhere without somebody asking me where I'm going or what I'm doing, it's not an overreaction it's honestly really annoying, it feels like the Truman Show. In the same way the kids can't seem to keep their hands to themselves and on three occasions today either myself or Nigel was grabbed. I really wanted to give them a knock around but they have their own issues in life to sort out and I'm not here to start more fights. The police lineup wouldn't take long either, I would be up against a chalk statue, white lamp post and some feta cheese.
After cutting my bike ride short because I was getting fed up with a lack of peace and quiet I returned back to the low dam. The army stopped me, apparently I was unable to cycle across the dam. I told them I had just waved and smiled at them an hour ago on my way over! Now all of a sudden I can't cycle over a dam that is about 600m long. I've cycled 4000miles to be here but no, fair enough, ill jump in the back of your van so you can take me back across the dam I have just cycled over!
Now i haven't been here long but I've noticed a few things that it doesn't take a rocket scientist to notice, that could be changed slightly to ensure a little more safety on the streets. Here are just some law enforcements that the Army could help with:
The road has two lanes for example, maybe it would be a good idea if the cars stayed on the correct side of the road and didn't just drive towards head on traffic at a slower speed when they felt like it. Call me crazy, but it seems in other countries the whole two lane thing and keeping to them, has worked pretty well!
Traffic lights, they work better when they're switched on.
The seat belt road sign. It's great having the sign up there but unless the 5 door fiats that speed around are fitted with 12 seat belts then something tells me that not everyone that's crammed in there is wearing their seatbelt. The kid laying on the dashboard could be a start.
At night when you see one headlight, understand its not always a motorbike and this could be dangerous if people crossing the road think it's just a motorbike. In saying that, seeing a vehicle with just one light is a miracle. You're more likely to see the light from the phone that's stuck to the driver's ear or from their lighter lighting a cigarette before you see any headlights. You may get lucky and see a really colourful car. They also like to re-wire their vehicles in the dark so they play music when you turn the key, or the indicators flash blue and red etc. My favourite was the Tuktuk that played music when it braked, no lights but you could enjoy the sounds of "Bingo was his name-o" as you smashed up his backside!
The no beeping road sign, waste of metal and labour.
Pedestrian crossings...no, didn't think so.
I'm not annoyed about the pointless ride in the back of the truck as I actually quite enjoyed it. It just embarrassed the Army and it frightens me for the sake of the Egyptian people that they are putting one man cycling over a 600m long dam at the top of their list of priorities when there are people dying in areas all over the country every week due to their revolution.
While I'm on the subject of noticing things I may as well carry on because my day was pretty quiet. These maybe things that have made me chuckle, annoyed me or things I've just thought...why?
The attire gets me for a start. I checked with the Salah family first before I decided to comment on this. The long gowns that are so common with 99% of the male population I have been told are not for religious reason which begs the question, why wear them? Saleem told me it was comfy and I'm not going to lie they do look comfy but in 30 degree heat? They're hardly the most practical item of clothing when you're tirelessly digging away in the fields or on your back underneath a car. Just think of how filthy the hems get and that's just from the dust off the road! I wouldn't mind one for dossing around the house in like an airy onesie. I couldn't find a red and black striped one though.
Sandles! I personally hate the things but I can appreciate that they can be comfortable and practical in hot weather. As a football coach though I am looking at sporting potential and it is a scientific fact that its impossible to run in sandals let alone kick a football! When you combine the sandals with the long gowns then there is no wonder there is very little sport played in the schools that I've cycled through, you may as well stick them all in sleeping bags!
I am looking at the attire from a purely practical day to day wear/sporting background and this is meant in no way to be derogatory. I'm just saying, if someone decided to rob me and I'm wearing a gown and sandals then I would have no chance unless they were wearing a sack, then you've got yourself a race!
A lot of my day is taken up with bargaining. It's not uncommon to go back to a shop 3 times and be charged 3 different prices for the same thing. I understand the white man has to pay extra, that's just the way it is. This is not fair, this is not what happens in England, this is prejudice but if I'm going start that off then I probably shouldn't of chosen to cycle through Africa.
I do however enjoy catching them out by asking different questions to the regular touristic "how much is this?" Expect that the Egyptians charge you over double what they would accept. For example, in Luxor the first time I went up to somebody and asked him directly "how much for an hour in a felucca?" He delayed, they always delay slightly to think of a price, probably relating to where you're from as this is always their first question. He gave me his best price of 60 Egyptian pound. Two days later I approached a guy and didn't ask, just told him. I have 20 Egyptian pound, that's it. He said ok then.
If you guess a low price instead of asking them how much something is then that works too. Knowing the numbers in Arabic has helped me even more as well. "Hamza?" (5) and they either say "nooo...... 8" or they say "ok" You know its still probably 3 for the locals but if you got it 3 pound cheaper then thats always good fun. Go back next time and say "albar?" (4) The delay is always an obvious sign they're picking a value out of the air. I've caught them off guard a few times when I've guessed the correct local price and they've said "ok, I mean no" aaaaaahhh you said ok first I'm afraid. Some shop keepers like a laugh and others don't. The one constant is, the house always wins.
One thing they do that can either make you laugh or really annoy you is you could be stuffing your face with food, have bags of food in your hands and pushing a shopping trolley, the man at the chicken stand will still offer you a chicken. You could be wearing a rug have two rolled up under each arm but the rug seller will still offer you a rug! They are tireless and unfazed. My favourite is the taxi man or horse and cart that pulls up beside me as I'm sat on Nigel.
"Want a ride?"
"No thanks I am sat on a bike"
"come on just one hour"
"no thanks I'm on a bike"
"5 pound for one hour, good price"
"sorry, didn't you hear or see me? IM ON A BIKE!"
"Where you from?"
"England"
"Ah England, I love England, good people"
"Thank you"
"Want a ride?"
(Say nothing, shake of the head)
"ok then 2 pound."
This is a shortened version believe it or not of a typical conversation that I've had on many occasions. It's funny to read now but after the 5th time you just end up having to be rude and ignoring them or you get very annoyed.
By the time I got back from my ride, had a shower, kind of sorted Nigel and chilled out it was time for dinner. Adel knew where the bike shops were so I will check them out tomorrow and see if they have a strong looking rear rack, if not then I will just keep what I have.
I went for a cheap dinner as I had a disappointing KFC for lunch and was insulted by the size of wing that they tried to get away with giving me. "Always" put bigger wings on their panty liners then i had on my tray. The colonel has let me down twice in Egypt now and I'm beginning to lose faith.
I ended up with a vegetarian meal and a movie then bed. 2 Falafel pittas, 4 pitta breads, packet of crisps and some dairylea triangles for £1.20 English, that'll do nicely.
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