Last night got cold for the first time in a while. I had to get the sleeping bag out because although the heat from the engine exhaust kept me warm initially, the wind was a bit cutting. I woke up to the sunrise and the sound of someone sneezing directly over me. It didn't feel like I had slept a wink.
Everyone was up and smoking around me so it was very hard to roll over and ignore them. I got up and realised I still had a good 3 hours at least until I arrived in Wadi Halfa. I made the decision the. That I wouldn't cycle today and I would stay in a hotel, sort some of money into Sudanese pounds and chill.
We arrived in Halfa at 11 and before I got off I was stopped by a man who said I had to fill out yet more forms to get into Sudan. The South African guys had hired him to help them so I followed along with them. The "fixer" as they're known as, make it their job to sort through all your paperwork and he told me to head for the King Jan hotel as that's where he had the South Africans staying for a few nights while they waited for their Land Rover.
Amazingly I managed to get Nigel off in one piece as the mad rush to unload people and cuddly toys ensued all around me. I headed towards customs where a man trusted my word of what was in my panniers and then I was free. Wadi Halfa was not at all what I was expecting. I was expecting some buildings on the lake or around the lake, there was nothing. I was greeted with vast desert and a tiny gathering of buildings hidden behind 3 hills.
I headed in the direction the fixer told me and the one road felt like melted chocolate. It was so smooth, I could see instantly why everybody raved about riding in Sudan. I found the hotel and it was called the "cingan" hotel. Slight difference in pronunciation but we always get there in the end. There were two other cyclists staying here but going the other way. They were getting the ferry tomorrow and Beet from Switzerland and Duncan from England were again a great help and source of info.
We had lunch and dinner together and again, spent hours talking about the exciting times I have waiting ahead of me. My exhaustion from yesterday was getting converted again into enthusiasm but they also mentioned that were no atm's in Sudan. Somehow I missed this and so I will need to think carefully about what I do in the future. I can use Western Union which is the only easy option I have and apparently none of the banks are connected to England.
This is just something that doesn't need to be worried about for 2 or 3 days so I won't bother till then. Duncan did advise some better routes to take through Ethiopia that echoed Jorge's advice so my worries through Ethiopia have completely reduced. He also mentioned a group of four cycling a week ahead of me. It's nice to know there are more and more cycle tourers and who knows, I may find a cycle buddy for a couple of months in the same way Duncan and Beet met.
After dinner conversation about cycling and travelling flowed on till late and it was great again to talk to someone that shares your same interest. I helped them with Egypt by issuing them more with warnings compared to Sudan as it seems the type of people are completely contrasting.
It was the boost I was looking for again to help get me back in the adventure mode and I hope I won't be stuck anywhere for as long as I was in Aswan. It seems it wasn't good for my mojo!
My decision to stay a night in Wadi Halfa turned out priceless. Bring on tomorrow with its new places, new faces and a new story to tell.
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