As I packed Nigel up and readied him for just a short trip to the port I felt the nervous excitement that I've experienced on all the previous occasions when I've spent more than one rest day in one place. This is an indication to me that the wanderlust is still there and I haven't had my "fix" yet.
I couldn't wait to leave Egypt to be honest and as i cycled heavy Nigel out of Aswan I happily replied to the annoying hellos. I arrived at port just before 10. It was how I had expected, slightly chaotic with stacks of boxes and people everywhere. The security was pretty strong and one of the guards told me to wait till 10.
At 10am I approached the gate where I had to pay 40 Egyptian pound to leave. Don't ask me why but I had read that there were extra charges to leave. I got an extra ticket from that payment and was then ushered towards the scales. At the scales my ticket and passport were taken and was then asked to pay 52 Egyptian pound. This I questioned as there was no comment of this anywhere I've read but it sort of did make sense as I had a bike and I guessed luggage was extra. Looking at the amounts other people were bringing on I thought it was probably fair if we were all getting charges the same rates. The chances of that being the case are well, well you're probably more likely to get a quiet walk through Cairo then you are to find an honest and fair Egyptian working at a border. I could smell manure when he said, "I work for the government I'm just doing my job" this is Arabic for, "I'm here to overcharge you and there's nothing you can do about it"
I paid the money but if there is anyone looking to follow in my footsteps and reading this then if I were to do it again, I wouldn't of stopped at the scales, I would've just carried on to the next checkpoint. I was a bit annoyed as i moved on. At the next checkpoint the same thing happened although I had put on my border crossing gloves and was prepared to throw some punches. He looked at me up and down and then looked at Nigel and he said "£10" I told him in my most polite English that I wasn't going to give him anymore money because I didn't feel it was justified and nobody else was....
He looked around at his gang of friends then waved me through. As I passed them they sniggered, just like a conman does when he gets found out. Tr next checkpoint was customs and I had to pay 2 Egyptian pound for a stamp that said I was leaving. Egypt was a lot more expensive and hard work to leave then it was to arrive that's for sure. I got through that and then i had to open a few of my bags to prove I wasn't a very low budget undercover agent. All the time incidentally there are people charging around with boxes on their heads, dragging massive trollers of cargo and bundles of people all trying to get one stamp from one guy. The women were probably the worst! There were only about 10 of them but it seems African women don't queue or care whether they smack you or your things with their bags. To survive in a border crossing situation or any situation that involves a mass of Africans you must chuck away all the manners you learnt as a young Brit. If you don't, you will just find yourself getting irate and queuing for hours as everybody pushes in front.
I like to get stuck in and as i waited in second place at one of two windows I told a woman that decided to push in front of me that it goes, "him, me, then you" she replied with "no, this for women that window for men" well that's convenient seeing as there are a few hundred men and just her and her sisters!!! She was lying and I got there in front of her despite her using the hole in the Perspex of an unused third window to wave her passport around.
After all of the mayhem I really don't know what the rush was about, I got on the ferry at 11 and we didn't leave till 5pm!!! Being white had some advantages and i did get to bypass most of the extra security checks. It seemed I was one of the first on the ferry and Nigel took pride of place at the back where he was safely locked in the smoking area next to the drums of petrol. It was alright though as at the other end of the ferry were the nuclear missiles and big red buttons. I sat for the duration and watched the contents of an Asda Walmart get loaded onto a tiny ferry that was no bigger than a Tescos extra. Anything and everything was stacked onto the ferry from cushions to window frames from shoes to washing machines. It was pretty impressive to be honest and I took a walk around the top deck where the majority of it was stored and people had made tiny houses and sleeping areas within the cargo. I just a had a boring piece of floor by Nigel but I was set for a night under the stars.
The majority of the people I spoke to onboard were Sudanese and I could already sense a difference in atmosphere. I felt calmer, more relaxed and when people were standing around Nigel, despite my watchful eye they were more inclined to talk about him with me instead of stare at him and whisper to their friends. I needed to train my trust because I had no choice. The term "look with your eyes" along with "single file" must've got lost in Africa because its official that they cannot stand next to something without putting their hands on it or leaning on it in someway. My love for Nigel is probably unhealthy and I know he's a good looking fella but seriously, stop clicking his gears!
I met the captain and a few of the staff, you would of thought they were just punters as they were wearing long gowns too. No point mentioning health and safety attire though when you're talking to someone who's smoking a cigarette whilst sat on a petrol tank which is leant up against the grating that surrounds the engine. I thought well if this blows, its probably safe to be blasted from the ferry then die instead.
The sunset over the Nile was pretty beautiful and I was pleased to see that I wasn't the only one taking pictures. It made me feel less of a token tourist despite myself and the two South African guys from the embassy still being the only white people on the boat. As the day continued I got to thinking about the remainder of the trip. I say remainder, I should say the main bulk. Egypt had taken a lot out of me and the repetitiveness of seeing the same people for 8 days straight had made me comfortable and I found it hard to adjust into action mode.
I felt exhausted just thinking about the thousands of miles I still have yet to tackle. If every country was as draining as Egypt I would get to Lesotho and snake skin of a man. As always, it doesn't help thinking about it and I soon told myself to get back into day by day mode. I think the 8 days rest had me thinking about the future which is pointless when you have the present to deal with first!
I settled down for night next door to Nigel. Looking up at the amazing star filled night sky could've put me to sleep instantly if it wasn't for the constant whirring of the engine and the shouting over the engine noise from the card playing insomniacs.
I was back on the road and back into the extreme! Bring on Sudan!
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